In this weeks’ episode, I did a little work painting and preparing the kit with a base colour of Tamiya XF-17 Blue acrylic paint over the grey primer as I want the kit to have a metallic feel. I’ve got some new Alclad metallic paints on order so will be applying these to key areas of the kit.
In Part 2 of my Blog, I’ll explain how I’ve gone about this stage….
First, the XF-17 Blue paint was sprayed onto the main components – Base, Sides and Top as well as some of the main piping and tubes.
I’ve decided to start on the base and I’m adding some fine detail onto the base casting. I’ve taken some 0.2mm and 0.6mm flexible wire and bent it into shape. Using a very fine drill bit I’ve drilled out some of the holes on the moulding (see below) for the wire to go into and I’m considering leaving these plain silver unpainted once the kit has been assembled but may decide later if they need painting.
Next step was to paint the Vents that will be inserted into the main side panels. Using black as a base colour I then dry-brushed silver and finally applied a slight wash of Tamiya X-19 Smoke to dull the silver paint down and give it a slightly glossy look.
While this was drying I moved onto the Electronics. I’m adding our LED Lighting Set to the kit so I needed to prepare the components.
First, I decided to assemble the LED Ring that is inserted into the top of the Stasis Pod cylinder. This element is driven from the custom Board that we’ve designed and fits neatly inside the kit lighting the figure from above. The Ring has several different modes and is formed of a 29mm circular board with six 2-colour SMD’s (Surface Mounted Diodes) which you can see in the image opposite next to the +/- letters.
In the LED Lighting Set we have a strange shaped ring with segmented panels – this is the Light Blocker and is inserted between the circular board and the clear panel component shown at the bottom of the following picture.
Using some CA glue to stick the Light Blocker to the Circuit Board I then used standard Liquid Poly to stick the clear part to the other face of the Light Blocker. I’m not worried about the clear parts misting as I wanted to have them diffused slightly anyway and had sanded the inner surface of the part before assembly. If you feel you’re going to want the clear disc transparent, I’d suggest using canopy glue.
In the photo below, I’m using a small clamp to keep the parts together while the glue dries It is important you make sure that all the 3 parts all align as they need to fit snugly inside the Stasis Pod.
Here is the assembled disc, Light Blocker and circuit board. The roughness on the disc is because I have sanded the inner surface to create a diffused pattern and the part os normally transparent when you get the first casting.
And finally, a quick test of the assembled LED Ring to check the wiring and circuits works. Happy with the outcome!
Check back soon for my next part in the series!